For a seasonal dose of brilliance/madness, without a doubt the award would go to Thom Browne’s AW17 collection hands down. The designer pulled no punches with his larger-than-life interpretations of the humble grey suit, deconstructing and reconstructing it as a homage to epic proportions.
Presented in three-fold, Browne’s choice of reusing the same felted Harris Tweed and grey palette throughout his show served only to enhance their revolutionized forms. As the army of monochrome models strutted down the runway, what began as just a traditional three-piece suit quickly morphed into a tailored frenzy. Suits were tightly nipped at the waist, sleeves dragged on along the floor and there was clearly an explosion at the button factory. Models slowly transformed into two dimensional statues where puzzle pieces of suits were reassembled as a flat square and the franken-suits took on a life of their own.
This collection is as far away as you can step from the classic sartorial uniformity of this menswear staple. The freakish helmet masks by Stephen Jones and leather hooves nipped completed the somber march perfectly. Thom Browne’s message was clear – this is not just your father’s grey suit, this is your father’s grey suit after an existential crisis riding high off an LSD trip straight out from a Dystopian novel. And we couldn’t be more excited about it.
Photographs by Quentin de Ladelune