Somewhere between the end of the 60s and the smashing start of the seventies, the Prada woman ignited her mojo dressed in printed satin dresses, embellished with feathers and crystals, like that of a bold party girl. But during the day, she knows how to be discreet, at times even masculine, when she puts on Baker Boy suit entirely tailored in the most beautiful of shearlings. Liberated, complex and enigmatic: the very definition of the house Prada, in which this collection becomes the quintessence.

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Spatial, disturbing, almost salacious at times, it is this range of personalities that Alessandro Michele presents to us for the next Autumn/Winter. A fantastic cavalry hits the podium wearing full-length knitted dresses in white, princely dresses in dragon pink that feels more childlike than red carpet, and a fairly pronounced propensity for members of the 70s jet-set. A true creative that reassures us, season after season, of a new statement one can no longer discount of the florentine house.

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Dolce & Gabbana

In the tradition of the men’s collection, the Italian duo orchestrated a new show that brought more than just a runway, with a casting that was even more impressive than in January. Friends of the house, Gabriel Kane Day Lewis, Pyper America or other big names on social media shared the spotlight and embodied a new turning point in the history of the house: that of eternal youth. References to past collections are seen, from Sicilian nobility to the obsession of leopard print. The season personified the very essence of the most emblematic label of postmodern Italy.

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No, even though the Versace woman exudes an obvious sex appeal, she does not however walk the avenues of Los Angeles in sheath dresses and gold-plated sandals. Donatella Versace gives us a shiny, sharp version with a hint of punk in its feminine ideal, where tailored jackets are worn with fishnet dresses, and where high heels look like they’re ready for the tennis court. Ever sure of herself, the Versace femme fatale opts for a more street look for the season to come. A premise, perhaps, of rumors that one would hear about an imminent arrival within the house?

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Words by Félix Besson